Hi again everyone!
What a whirlwind 2 weeks it has been. I had two World Cups in China, the first taking place in Chongqing and the second in Tai’an. I’ll start discuss Chongqing in this blog post and then Tai’an in my next blog post.
Here we go:
After 3 plane flights and a 24 hour travel day we arrived in Chongqing, China around midnight. We checked into the hotel and promptly fell asleep…a bed never feels quite as comfortable as when you haven’t slept for almost an entire day!
The next morning I went to Black Ram for a session to shake the jet lag off. Black Ram is the bouldering gym everyone usually trains at in Chongqing before the competition. The gym is unique because it’s located in the middle of an amusement park. Needless to say…it’s always an adventure getting there.
After the session at Black Ram we went back to the hotel to catch a nap and catch up on even more sleep! The next day was more or less of the same thing, wake up, go to the gym, and then head back to the hotel for a nap!
My only non-training day in Chongqing was on the Friday before the competition. We walked around the city a little bit and then went to registration and the technical meeting. For me the competition really feels like it begins when I go to the technical meeting…it makes me feel like the competition is right around the corner (which it is!).
I have been to Chongqing twice before, 2015 and 2016. This was my first experience at the new Chongqing venue. The wall was very nice and very tall!
Once again, qualifiers took place on Saturday afternoon for the women. Since there were so many competitors we climbed in two groups (A & B). Below is a video of my highpoint on all of the boulders and then a short breakdown of how the boulders felt to me. My final score was 1T4Z, 3 5. An easier reading of the score is: 1 Tops, 4 Zones, 3 Attempts to Top, 5 Attempts to Zone.
Boulder 1: This boulder got everyone’s knees with a crucial knee bar in the second move! After the crucial knee bar you cruised up an overhanging headwall to the finish. I reached the zone on my first attempt on this boulder and I could not make the move to the top.
Boulder 2: The first move was a small jump followed by a high foot and a press into some geometrical volumes. The press felt really tough for me and is where I fell on the problem.
Boulder 3: A big dyno for the first move, the rest of the boulder involved pressing. I fell right after the zone on my second attempt.
Boulder 4: Mainly comprised of shallow crimps on volumes, this boulder felt the longest to me. I reached the zone on my first attempt and fell near the top.
Boulder 5: I felt confident going into this boulder since it was on a vertical wall. After an integrated move at the beginning I managed to stick the tricky finish on my third attempt.
Despite coming into Chongqing feeling super confident…I just didn’t feel that great during the round. I think a lot of my weaknesses were exposed, which makes the round hard, but is ultimately good for my training!
I left this round in 35th place overall and 17th place in my group. Having a weekend where you didn’t feel like you performed super well is always a bummer…but I knew I could look forward to the next World Cup in Tai’an :)
On to the next adventure…