This is a really exciting moment for me, my home wall/gym is complete! There are still a few more additions that will be made (more holds/volumes, some workout equipment, etc.), but the wall itself is finished. I have been having some great climbing sessions on the wall and they have been epic. Hopefully this blog will give everyone a little insight to what went into #SBCGym.
I have always wanted a climbing wall. When I was 14, a wall was almost built in the space (racquetball court), but it ended up not being the right fit for me at the time. I am so glad that I waited to build the wall, because it is exactly what I want and need right now!
I have been climbing for almost 13 years and I have been exposed to many different walls, angles, setting styles, etc. Right now in my climbing career I need to improve my strength and learn how to climb World Cup style boulder problems.
In a commercial gym it’s difficult to set in a similar way to the World Cup because so many of the holds and volumes are large. It’s difficult to accommodate a variety of levels of climbers on these problems and they can create a falling hazard. This is really where the idea of the wall was born. I needed a wall where I could focus on training exactly what I needed. I decided that now was the perfect time to build the wall, World Cup season is just around the corner and I am hoping to do the circuit.
The Design Idea
I climb a lot of overhanging/steep and roof terrain at my home gym. That being said, I thought it would be best to build a wall that focused on more vertical, slab, and slightly overhanging climbing. I am still going to climb at my home gym, so I will get plenty of steep training there.
Originally, the angles and layout for the wall were decided upon by myself and my Dad. However, once Steve Bowser (the engineer) got involved, suddenly the wall became that much more epic. Steve is responsible for the adjustable wall, adjustable campus board, and slab. Not only did Steve create great ideas and designs, he also put in many man-hours.
If you are interested in talking to Steve, his contact info is below.
Steve Bowser https://www.linkedin.com/in/srbowser
Height: 16 feet (all walls)
Vertical: 24 feet long
Slab: 20 feet long at 5 degrees
Overhang: 8 feet long at 10 degrees, 16 feet long at an adjustable range from 5-30 degrees
24 inches of Asana padding
By The Numbers…
13,056 T-nut set screws
36 sheets of plywood (34 for the wall, 2 for the campus board)
1,800 pounds of foam (12 pads @ 150 lbs per pad)
20+ trips to Home Depot
Holds and Volumes
All of the holds and volumes for the wall are from the companies below. A big thank you to these companies for getting me the sickest holds and volumes!
I wanted to say a big thank you to the great crew that helped with the wall. Without you guys, there is no way the wall would be nearly this incredible!
So thank you….
Dad, Home Depot specialist and organizer.
Brad, the rock wall guru. This man did everything.
Steve Bowser, the engineer. The wall instantly took a leap when Steve jumped on board.
Jack, setter extraordinaire and T-nut placing. He has set some of the sickest problems ever on the wall. I have had some great sends and even greater falls on them.
Jonathan, marathon T-nut placing.
Matt, T-nut placing, pad stuffing, and helping set some of the first problems ever on the wall!
JBone, setter extraordinaire. Putting me on the crimpiest problems ever.